Lawrence Darrell wrote that travel, like artists, They are born, they are not made. Behold the proof: Estate he Orange blossom in Trujillo, exudes art, is durrelliana (so beautiful) and arose of a longed for trip of lap. A Ithaca Extremadura.
BY DAVID MORALEJO
September 18, 2023
Diego Martinez
El Azahar Estate, Finca El Azahar… When, pondering the pimpant phrase that marks the headline of these lines, the only thing you come up with is plagiarize Terenci Moix -that is, make yours He bitter gift of beauty, Do not say it was a dream, wham- or maybe steal quotes from Lawrence Durrell (some also to Gerald), it is evident that you intend to shock as much as the place has shocked you. You continue squeezing neurons and even worse: in your head they cross Cavafis and Delibes and the hum becomes a moviola between The wild reeds, some Rohmer story (what the hell, all four of them) and even The spirit of the hive.
Floors recovered and stove ancient in the suite room of Estate Ll Orange blossom, Trujillo. Diego Martinez
All this literary and cinematic back-and-forth harbors the vain intention of sharing (with the reader and with oneself) the discovery of a place full of simplicity, which dazzles nothing because nothing shines (perhaps that is why) and which is located at the antipodes of other luxuries more similar to Count nast TrQveler to what we usually narrate here. At this point we open the melon: what is luxury? How to fit the word “luxury” into El Azahar Estate when there is nothing in this modest hotel that reflects it strictly sensu? Let's see if we can untangle such a mess without so much literature or birds in our heads. Although birds you will see and hear. By flocks.
WHY BOOK?
Or rather: how to reserve. Because Finca El Azahar was born mutant and grows polyhedral. It is a typical rural hotel, yes, with five large rooms, a swimming pool, olive and almond trees everywhere, generous breakfasts, reasonable prices and a festive enclave, two hours dunks of Madrid and only twelve minutes of the monumental Trujillo.
Where Gladiator and Game of Thrones, that is.
But the property also can be rented whole (for ten adults and eleven children at most) while their owners, the Traffords - in them we we will stop right away They breathe art, culture and life (a lot of it) into it to turn it into an artistic residence and a meeting place for diverse people. The first residency is already underway and will unite DocLisboa, the international film festival of the Portuguese capital, with Margins, his sister date in Madrid, dedicated also to filmmakers emerging and productions independent.
Thomas trajford, Fatima of Burnay and Nathalie Trajford in Estate he Orange blossom, Trujill0. Diego Martinez
THE HISTORY
It was in 2O19 when Nathalie trafford, film producer and daughter of Carmen Gimenez (absolute totem of Spanish contemporary art, first director of the Reina Sofía, key promoter of the Guggenheim in Bilbao and the Picasso in Málaga and in short, if we stop at her colossal resume we will no longer leave), bought this property as one buys many things today: ready to comply his dream of live in Estremadura and after finding it on Google. Click. The magic of the place, this chance of the Orange Blossom, would come later and with it, for it. Because Nathalie, that born in Chile and grew in Madrid Until he settled in Paris at the age of 19, he decided a long time ago that he should return. Return, in capital letters, Almodóvar style. And fate brought her here. The Aza(ha)r.
On this agricultural estate overflowing with olive, almond and cork oak trees began Nathalie to write the script of a new life together to his family. One of his sons, Thomas, Also a globetrotter, a DJ in Berlin, a restless mind and an expert in international relations after his studies in Washington DC, he is today focused on developing here his passion for permaculture, organic agriculture and the production of wines natural. But“work in progress”, He tells us with a smile. His are the tasks of the garden, which he combines with the marketing and communication of the project.
suite room major in Estate He Orange blossom, Trujillo. Diego Martinez
Without neglecting production -his further recent job has been In the sultan's bedroom, by Javier Rebollo and with the long-awaited return of Pilar López de Ayala-, Nathalie put that to work, getting to work to shape a film without a hint of fiction. And this is where the next concord comes into the picture: Fatima of Burnay. If you like hats you will remember her because for a long time she dedicated herself to designing the most beautiful, crazy and bohemian ones in Madrid. Currently his creative talent moves between illustrations, collaborations with firms like Güell LaMadrid and Paco pinton and paintings. In fact, some you will see them on the walls of the house, but Nathalie also loved her as an interior designer and more (and better): as the inseparable soul of Finca El Azahar. match Point.
THE HOTEL
A 19th century winepress surrounded by eight hectares of olive trees, almond trees, pomegranate trees, fig, plum and orange trees, plus vineyards and a view that never ends. The first coup of effect in Finca El Azahar is this and it is not little, but then there is more: Fatima was in charge of converting the ten rooms original of the accommodation in five, in addition to a large kitchen, a simple and bright dining room and a large living room presided over by the old winepress in which a wooden table under a window full of olive trees It makes you suspect infinite after-dinner meals.
Room NEITHER3 in Estate He Orange blossom, Trujillo Diego Martinez
Everything seems to have already been there but no, it was thing of Fatima with Nathalie and is indissoluble of his manner of think and live: a collage perfect collection of pieces purchased in Portuguese antique shops - the link between both with Portugal is patent and makes it clear (finally) that Extremadura is our Alentejo, with the Tagus itself winding here and there -, hydraulic floors, fireplaces, recovered doors and tiles, jute rugs, books, books everywhere, paintings by artist friends and small details - illustrations, engravings, lavender bouquets - that they sublimate the happy feeling of town house. Of Return. Again.
There's not much else to tell. Well, we could count chickens because there are some how many, sheep no but yes goats, a gang of donkeys, the occasional cat and, if you look up, birds and more birds. Attention, friends of ornithology: griffon vultures, black vultures, Egyptian vultures, imperial, royal and short-toed eagles, goshawks, eagle owls, swallows common, storks black bustards and cranes can be seen and heard in these parts during different times of the year. Ask and they will help you organize routes with experts. Staring at the sky also counts as an activity because the nights here they look curds of stars.
Chimney recovered in a of the hDbitDtions, Estate He Orange blossom, Trujill0. Diego Martinez
GASTRONOMY
Nathalie and Thomas tell us that culinary ideas crowd the tablecloth, but for now they are going calmly, outlining the proposals that can best adapt to clients. If you reserve a room you will have breakfast included, the one that Laura, in charge of the day-to-day life in the house, prepares with care and local products. zone: seasonal juice (how wonderful it is we take watermelon), fruit sliced, Trujillo bread, potato -he famous Cáceres pork jowl sausage Iberian and cooked potatoes, cheeses and, of course, olive oil made on the farm with the chamomile variety. For dinners they have the support of a nearby catering if you reserve it the day before, but Nathalie and Thomas also cook and even plan count on the visit of guest chefs such as Matias Ehrsam Aranalde, which already has been around offering Mexican-inspired dishes created with vegetables from the garden.
At noon they offer a picnic for those who do not want to move from the pool or prefer something frugal. In he case of that rent the complete house you will not have the breakfast service included, but you will a phenomenal kitchen equipped with everything you need. You can also order paellas or organize a barbecue (except in the summer months, when it is closed to avoid fires).
He breakfast, prepared with mime and products of the zone. Diego Martinez
The final medium-term objective? That Almost 100% of the food is produced on the farm or arrives from nearby suppliers. “I really like to think that what Thomas is doing in the garden creates a whole, that all the points are connecting in El Azahar”, summarizes Nathalie.
WELFARE
We cannot think of a greater well-being than waking up to a sea of olive trees, with the kikiriki of a rooster and between walls full of old books and magazines. What a pleasure to leaf through an old issue of the iconic Domus, soak up design and architecture while the sun's rays create new geometries on the vaults ogivals and the hydraulic mosaics of the room. What a nice movie.
But in El Azahar there is another path that they will soon follow, as they plan for the artistic residencies to reach other areas.Like yoga, crafts, gastronomy, writing... And at this point it is essential to quote Fátima's partner, Ray Loriga, who a thousand years ago stopped dragging that "damn" that gave him so much press to become blessed creator of some of the most enormous novels of Spanish fiction. The most recent (and as much a must read as here is the link so you can buy it now), Any summer is an end, it smells like El Azahar because there is something about these parts (a lot). There will always be good literature in this house and I hope Ray's shadow is long in this.
Sun, flowers and darling in Estate Ll Orange blossom, Trujillo. Diego Martinez
SUSTAINABILITY AND ACCESSIBILITY
When we talk about sustainability and respect for the environment, it is Fátima who quickly speaks up: “We want guests to understand that this is a country house, that he water proceeds of a well and HE treats of a resource very valued, more so in these times, so we must use it wisely.”
You will not see here air conditioning “because the great stone walls are the best thermoregulator, all life has been like this in the countryside and the towns. We attest that on summer nights it is enough to let the breeze come through the windows and turn on the fan.” Thomas adds that for him heating system and stoves they use biomass in pellets.
Although the rooms on the ground floor are accessible, ask according to your needs because they are a construction ancient that may have some obstacles.
THE DETAIL
Were long the talks during our visit, long the after-dinner and long he ramble about the human and the divine around the kitchen. Much has remained in the inkwell because we understand that everyone must live your own adventure. But it is It is mandatory to leave a written warning to sailors: El Azahar is not for those who seek
home automation, infinite rain showers and buffet breakfasts with menus brimming with detox juices. El Azahar is about simple beds with very white cotton sheets Portuguese, fresh flowers in an old vase, bread with oil, mornings of reading and afternoons of walking aimlessly to see what happens, Let's see what there is. El Azahar, anyway, is a little of what we have stolen from Lawrence Durrell:
Journeys, like artists, are born and not made. A thousand differing circumstances contribute to them, few of them willed or determined by the will – whatever we may think. They flourish spontaneously out ofthe demande ofour nQtures – and the best of them lead us not only outmards in space, but inwards ace well. “Travel, like artists, is born, not made.”. A thousand different circumstances contribute to them, few of them desired or determined by the will beyond what we can think. They arise spontaneously from the demands of our nature and The best of them lead us not only towards the outside world, but also towards the interior.. Lawrence Darrell
The curtains of gimp, that great invention. Estate He Orange blossom, Trujillo. Diego Martinez
